A quick breather

Before we left Alaska, we noticed a dramatic shift in the sea ice adjacent to town. Here are a few pictures of the sea ice in Barrow at various times:

Polar bear in early April, 2010. Photo courtesy of Paula.

Sea ice on arrival, late October 2010.

By the time we were leaving, the wind had shifted again bring the ice closer to shore. For days, the wind blew the ice in and out but it ceased and colder weather seemed to promise that the pancakes of ice would soon lock together in preparation for merging with the multi-year ice farther out in the ocean. The markedly shorter, dark days and dropping temperatures gave us a small glimpse of what it must be like to overwinter on the North Slope. Fairbanks I think I could handle, but I now have even more respect for those that call Barrow their home year round. The clear blue skies and 20 degrees warmer temperatures in Anchorage were a shock after the darkness, and its return in Seattle was strangely comforting. I'm glad I have a few days to recalibrate before the next wild swing to nearly 24 hours of daylight down south.

Also on my list for these few days is to catch up on my Antarctic explorers and literature, to the detriment of the stack of Alaskan books I purchased this last trip. Jack London definitely reads at bit differently a couple decades and more than a few seasons in Alaska later. While more books are in the mail (to add to my stack of mostly unfinished tomes), I found a few interesting websites about the women of Antarctica, often overshadowed by the likes of Scott, Shackleton, and Amundsen. I'm sure that to be interested in the women who have preceded me may be dismissed by some, but learning about the first American woman in an Antarctic expedition, current scientists and explorers, and all those in between is far more accessible and seems a bridge to those fantastical early tales. As a side note, I wonder if my little sister recalls me dragging her to see the IMAX movie about the Endurance.

Two days from now I will be (hopefully) sleeping on a plane to New Zealand. 2173 miles down, ~7500 more to go this week, give or take a few hundred miles. The relief of walking into a clean, good smelling house late last night was only tempered by the conspicuous absence of my puppy dog, and all I day I've had to stop myself from our usual routines. Despite my best intentions to get to the lab, scrubbing off field work (and the now infamous pink nail polish) and phone calls to banks, pharmacies, and medical providers took up my entire day. I vaguely recall the days of not being quite as tied down, and I know I'm not nearly as tied down as I could be. I really don't know how people do it year after the year. The logistics of arranging for bills to be paid and medications to be filled is not what first comes to mind when you hear you actually get to go south.

But who wants to hear about the mundane things of life? This evening I was able to check off some of the more fun things on my to do list including purchasing a new head lamp and picking up some travel guides on New Zealand. I've always found the travel section to hold my attention the longest in a book store, and I've only once purchased a travel book that has gone unused. The book for Iceland still sits on my shelf, becoming progressively outdated but still reminding me that there are more places to experience. Considering the numerous novels that line my shelves started yet unfinished, it's a small miracle that there is only one "extra" travel book. Of course, we can just overlook the stack of travel magazines that I've managed to keep.

(Note to my friends out there that are new moms: if you want to make sure your child is bitten by the travel bug, I recommend taking a short course someplace like Bali when your child is in elementary school and bring back all manner of exciting clothes and art. I still have a threadbare child sized t-shirt from Bali that has been sewn into a pillow cover.)

With that, I am off to relish another night in my own grown-up sized bed. Rotating dorms and tents are waiting for me soon enough.

Mr. Toad's wild ride

The inevitable happened. Field days 2, 3, and 4 came and went without much time in between for a post. So, here is a recap as best as I can remember.

Sunrise on the way to Sukok lake, 27 October.

Second field day was out to Sukok lake with our full field team of six people on 4 snow machines, plus our guide and 2 sleds. The lake is about 20 miles away, but with a max speed of about 20 mph and very bumpy topography, the trip took about an hour and a half. It was quite a challenging ride for my second day driving a snow machine. I learned to trust the beast a bit more and the value of punching the accelerator. Once in awhile, the skis would follow a track despite my attempts at steering, giving the distinct feeling of Mr. Toad's wild ride. Finally, we reached the edge of the lake, and I thought the challenge had passed. The boss rode out towards our coordinates and stopped about 20 feet shy of a large, open, methane seep that was not iced over. The rest of the group joined him and only once we were sampling did we discover that the seep was not in a single location, but extended in a line across the sub-basin, with very thin, loosely aggregated ice cover. Just a few feet away, the ice was back to 25 cm depth, but we had to be very careful. The next site was in the center of the lake, and we managed to cross over the thin ice without incident.

Thicker ice adjacent to an open methane seep, Sukok lake.

Sampling at the center site was a bit more challenging, with mud that suctioned core tubes and a sampling hole that was hiding under the tent, laying in wait to trick me. Yes, I stepped into the sampling hole. The lake depth is only about 2 meters, and luckily I only went in up to my knee or thigh, depending on who is telling the story. Felt very much like post holing, but I was lucky not to have broken a leg. The rest of the week my boss was very kind to constantly point out all open holes in the vicinity. (For the record, it was impossible to get away with anything this week!) It truly takes talent to step in the only hole in the ice for a mile in every direction. A dry pair of socks on one foot, the replacement of frozen Carhartt overalls with dry Carhartt coveralls, and several foot warmers later, we were on our way to face the challenging ride home again. Managed to stay relatively warm thanks to a "dancing" break with the boss on the way back and boots firmly hooked into the snow machine near the exhaust. No frostbite!

The next day, we discovered the Thai restaurant in Barrow. Sonny affirmed that the best Thai food I've ever had has been in Alaska. This stuff was amazing, especially the soup and the green curry. We even ate there again last night because we enjoyed it so much.

The third field day at a lake north of Walakpa bay was far less eventful than the second day out, although the snow machine ride was nearly as rough. Only one site made for a shorter day and I was able to process everything before dinner. However, issues with a chilling water bath and needing to get more water for an experiment back in the lower 48 necessitated a fourth day out, this time with a much smaller team.

Last sampling site of the trip, center of Sukok lake, 30 October.

If you want to travel fast, pack 1 sled to be pulled by your experienced guide and hop on the back of a snow machine driven by an even more experienced Antarctic ecologist. Just be sure to hold on tight. The trip back out to Sukok yesterday was still nearly an hour and a half, but was far faster than Wednesday. The wind and worsening weather made for a rough day, but our field tent managed to hang in there one more time and give some much needed shelter while sampling. The ice screws disappeared shortly after I stepped in the hole on Wednesday and we lost another pole on Friday, but it still functioned. The real excitement came when we were back at the seep site and had to warn a couple of caribou hunters about the thin ice just a few feet away. One of them backed up so fast, he ran right over the sled he was pulling!

After we got back and took care of business, we headed into town. Caught the local band warming up at the roller rink before the big Halloween party, but the scientists just couldn't cut it. After one of our own hopped up on stage to join the band with his harmonica, we headed home "early" around 11 pm and I passed out shortly after. I am certainly glad to have a week or so for a break before heading back out into the field, on the other side of the world. Two days for inventory, packing, and ending experiments. It's warmer in McMurdo than Barrow today, a trend I hope will continue!

Happy halloween!

First fall field day

Yesterday was our first sampling trip of the week. Waking up to pitch black skies is a bit difficult when you've become accustomed to field work in arctic springs and summers when there is nearly or a full 24 hours of daylight. Took us a little bit of time in the morning to get our gear in order, as it usually does the first time out. Guess who finally got to drive a snow machine (i.e. snow mobile)? If you guessed the person who had a cast for a broken wrist last trip, you would be correct. I definitely understand why people insisted on driving last trip and why most of them nearly lost me off the back several times. There is much more control when driving (and when not wearing a cast!) and the ability to hook your feet under the front makes it far more secure. I think I need to pay back a certain astrophysicist for several bumpy rides on our trip out tomorrow.

First lake yesterday was Ikroavik. One of our baseline lakes, sampling proceeded without many issues, albeit slower than I would have liked. Luckily we took the time to pop up the ice fishing tent, which cut down the wind considerably and eased taking samples. Our guide shared some of his lunch with us, which included maktaaq, dried caribou, and whale meat. He claimed that all three together is like the McDonald's of Barrow, but I stuck to the maktaaq along with the rest of the lunch we brought. For those of you who missed my description of tasting maktaaq last April, it's blubber and skin from a bowhead whale. It's very oily, with a nutty flavor vaguely reminiscent of seaweed. Soy sauce and wasabi are popular additions. The Inupiat have an annual quota that allows them to continue their traditions of whale hunting which is very much a part of the culture here. Basically, it's impractical to ship in all food from external sources, and whaling (and hunting) is an integral local food source. Our last trip in April was an exciting time here in town in part due to everyone getting ready for the beginning of whaling season.

After lunch, we finished sampling and despite having taken far too long, we moved on to the next lake, Emaiksoun. It was nearby and we did a relatively quick sampling, but the sun set while we were still working. Every day is about 4 minutes shorter than the one before, mercifully with an extended dusk. Driving the snow machines back to the station was still quite a challenge, with drizzle freezing on the windshield, requiring either driving blind, standing up, or craning one's neck out to the side to follow the trail. All things considered, it actually wasn't a bad day. The weather wasn't horrible, we accomplished what we set out to do, and I was able to meet my boss's challenge of the number of push-ups to match our ages (yes, mine were girly...). Wasn't sure the wrist would comply, but it held! Just don't ask me to do it again today, hauling gear and driving the snow machine made me reach for the pain relievers last night and again this morning.

No rest for the wicked though, we were all up early again today for a lab day of processing samples (and recovering). Tonight our NASA team members are arriving and we will head to our farthest site tomorrow. At least we'll be able to see some sun again, I blinked and missed it while working inside today.

Back in Barrow

We made a short visit to Fairbanks on our way up to Barrow this time. It was a little odd to finally see it with snow, but it was reassuring that really so little had changed in three years (at least on the west side of town). Wish I had taken more pictures, but we didn't do much besides visit people on campus, go to Beaver Sports, and run other errands. On campus, I was asked to share some of my work via presentation and had a really good meeting afterward with folks working on similar questions. We were also invited to a very international potluck last night where we met more great people and ate lots of amazing food. Turns out that Alaskan winter ale tastes even better in October than it does in May. Lesson of the evening was that Fairbanks definitely has a way of getting under your skin, and I'm sure my many friends who have moved there can attest to that.

Arrival in Barrow this morning was a bit of a shock. Windy! It was also about the level of daylight we had at about 2 am towards the end of our last trip here in April. Definitely an adjustment, but at least the air temperature is a bit warmer at the moment. We promptly set about getting settled in a new (to us) hut. We bemoaned the absence of some of our previous field members, so Paula and I set about documenting it for them.

Unfortunately, our first subject was lunch. Yes, that is indeed burnt toast. And burnt toast is really only very good if you are referring to a bed and breakfast in Ann Arbor. At least we have nice views.

This evening, we were joined by two more team members and decided that Pepe's was the easiest option for dinner. Pepe's North of the Border is a Barrow institution, they even have complimentary certificates for crossing the Arctic Circle. The restaurant's owner brought Johnny Carson a giant walrus "bone" on the Tonight Show in the mid-80s, so I guess there's that as well.

Speaking of famous people, there is another film crew coinciding with our field work again. When we were here in April, On the Ice was filming and we were able to watch some dancers perform for it. This time, there's a Drew Barrymore film about the whales that were stuck in the ice about 20 years ago. Apparently they want to film outside of the hut we stayed in last time, which is how we ended up in our new digs. Between this and the movies made in SE Michigan a few years ago, I'm beginning to feel like I never left California. Well, besides the wind chill. Honestly, I'd be more excited if I get to see the northern lights again.

T-minus way too soon.

Tomorrow the grand bi-polar adventure begins. As a send off, a friend sent me this link to Ghosts of Antarctic Stations. The story of Scott has always depressed me, I suppose I'm more of a Shackleton gal, in it more for the adventure than the destination. Or, I may just be a product of my generation.

In any case, let the adventure begin! First stop, Fairbanks via Seattle.

Getting ready

The next grand adventure is about to get underway. I'm currently in the middle of last minute preparations for a field trip not only to Alaska, but also to Taylor Valley in Antarctica!

To get you up to speed, my current research project is focused on the lakes near Barrow, Alaska. Our team is one component of a larger NASA Astrobiology Institute project focused on Icy Worlds. Which means, we get to study icy habitats (like frozen lakes) and figure out how to detect life on extraterrestrial icy worlds like Europa, an icy moon of Jupiter. We previously ventured out in April, at the end of winter when there was lots of ice on the lakes.

This time, we're heading up at the end of October right when things are beginning to freeze so that we can examine the differences in ice, water, and sediment characteristics and microbiology.

Three days after I return from Alaska, I am headed to Christchurch, New Zealand- the intermediate stop on the way to McMurdo Station. I'll be down there for almost 3 months, helping out a team of researchers who have been performing research on lakes in the Dry Valleys. I'll also be able to run some experiments of my own focused on comparing bacteria from opposite ends of the earth.

In the mean time, I've stumbled across a tempting Space Craft Contest over at etsy.com. No time for me to participate, but I can't wait to see what people submit.

Coming soon

Thanks to an inspired fit of (temporarily) deleting my facebook profile and an introduction to google reader, I've returned to the land of blogs. Look for more content coming relatively soon.

Blueberries

How to pick blueberries, for my friends up at Toolik.

Toolik on NPR

Gus and Hobbie interviewed for a story by NPR. Nancy Cohen arrives at Toolik Field Station today.

Summer, once again

Well, it is summer once again, and time to start up my blogging. However, this is the first summer in SEVEN years that I will not be going up to Toolik Lake. It is sad, but time to move on. Like to finishing my dissertation. However, I've had lots of adventures since the hamster and the workshop in Sweden, so hopefully I'll be able to fill in some fun gaps in the next couple of days.

Saturday was my first summer solstice since 9/11 that I haven't been in costume, at a bonfire, north of the Arctic Circle. Instead I took the dog to the dog park, ate pierogies, and watched the new movie, Get Smart.

R.I.P. Lucky

One week ago today, Lucky passed away in his sleep after entering a hibernation state from which we were unable to rouse him. My mother was delayed coming in to town and so never got to share a room with the little bugger. He is now buried beneath our potato pot in the garden. He lasted a record breaking three months. My office is much quieter now, albeit less smelly.

We'll miss you, Lucky.

Sweden videos

Rush hour in Södermalm, Stockholm. Södermalm is the south island neighborhood of Stockholm which encompasses the trendy "SoFo" neighborhood.

Wolverine at Skansen Arctic animals exhibit. Skansen is like a living history museum, filled with old buildings relocated there from all over the country.

Vasamuseet, Djurgarden. Ship was buried for 333 years after extreme listing on its maiden voyage. Discovered in the 1950s and restored using ethylene glycol to replace the water in the wood. Light pieces of wood are restoration replacements. The entire museum was built around this ship, its contents, and its restoration.

Abisko continued

Where the magic took place. The workshop was four days long and had participants from Europe and North America. It was really great to hear about a wide variety of Arctic research.

Out for a stroll on top of a mountain with Rod, Jay, and Mary Anne.

More cairns.

Sweden

Just got back from travel to Abisko, Sweden for a workshop on high latitude terrestrial- aquatic interactions. I'll try to post some of my favorite pictures in the next few days. I spent a few days in Stockholm afterwards and ended up taking well over 1,000 pictures.

Can't say that Sweden is my favorite "destination", but the workshop was well worth it and Abisko is absolutely stunning.


Abisko River

The largest mushroom I've ever seen.

The end of the season.

Top Ten Travel Destinations (so far)

Inspired by a question on Yahoo! Answers, I've decided to list my top ten travel destinations. Given that my current wish list is far longer (Amazon River Basin, Antarctica, Athens, Australia, Bali, Budapest, Caribbean, Costa Rica, Iceland, Morocco, New Zealand, Prague, Rome, Scotland, Semester at Sea, St. Petersburg, Valencia, Venice, Vienna, and Yellowstone), I've decided to just stick with places I've been.

1. Zanzibar

2. Paris

3. Hawaii/ Maui/ Kauai'i

4. Lake Tahoe

5. Kenai Peninsula, Alaska

6. San Juan Islands/ Bellingham/ Glacier/ Victoria/ Seattle

7. Yosemite

8. Nara, Japan

9. Cinque Terra, Italy

10. York, England

Never smile at a crocodile

I never saw anything like that when I was in Tanzania. Here's a few pics I took when I was there back in the summer of 2000:

The New Kids Rock

Secret Reagent Man

Schleppilepsy

I'm so proud... *tear

Still Lucky

Sassy is still very much interested in the hamster. Here's a close-up of Lucky:
I think he's a Dwarf Campbell's Russian Hamster. Definitely a Russian Dwarf, and definitely male.

It's still very hot and humid here- it's makes getting work done very difficult.

Lucky

Jen and I went to a friend's wedding last Saturday.

Yesterday, we "saved" a hamster.

Apparently, the best man gave the couple a hamster (and a popcorn maker) as a wedding present. They don't want a hamster and left for their honeymoon yesterday. The matron of honor (who lives in Pittsburgh) was saddled with dealing with the situation so Jen (her best friend) was called. We now have a dwarf hamster. We named it Lucky, because if we didn't take it it would have either been released into the woods or dropped outside of the Humane Society on a Sunday evening.

Sassy really likes the hamster. Obsessed, one might say.

When I was taking a shower this morning, I heard a loud crash. I thought it was my new roommate, Mark, moving stuff. When I got out of the bathroom, I discovered the door to my bedroom open, the hamster cage shattered on the floor, and Sassy laying on Jen's bed. Next to Sassy was a very soaking wet hamster with curled legs and closed eyes.

Not so lucky.

But wait! Jen detected a heartbeat, then we saw it breathing. Lucky is still alive. He regained consciousness and is starting to move around in a slightly more coordinated manor.

So, here's the question:

Did Sassy
a) swallow the hamster and regurgitate it on Jen's bed?
b) found the unconscious hamster after she knocked the cage off my dresser and gingerly carried it back to Jen's bed and proceeded to lick it back to life?
or c) dunk the hamster in her water bowl and sing it to sleep?